DIY Modern Farmhouse Dining Table

Updated: May 9, 2020

OVERVIEW


You GUYS. Do you have any idea how long I have been waiting to share this DIY with you? This is one of my favorite pieces that we make hands down! We sell many, many of these and they are currently one of our most popular products. I have been antsy to get one of our own here in the house for almost 2 years. TWO YEARS. I have been patient..ish. So without further ado, here is a peek at our modern farmhouse dining table!

Yeah, I just swept like ten minutes before taking these pictures but the kids have other plans of making sure its suitably messy. Anyways- isn't she a BEAUTY?! Bah. Yes, bah. I'm so excited. Alright let's get into what you're gonna need y'all. Would you believe me if I told you it only costs $150? YEP. 12 hours of work and $150. Now keep in mind this is an original design by Mike and he is a master at it now. His first table took him about 3 full days to create start to finish.

WHAT YOU'RE GOING TO NEED:


The below materials will make you a 72"x 38"x 30.25" table. You will have to adjust your board quantity and length based on what size table you are going for. This is a pretty standard 6' farmhouse table size.

We get all of our materials from Menards and Amazon.


TOTAL General cost: $150

DIY VIDEO:


STEP 1:

- Cut down 2x12's and 2x10's for top and legs.


First thing you are going to want to do is cut down the boards to length. The top consists of 2x10's and the legs consist of 2x12's. For the top (2x10's) you will need to cut those down to 70.5" (for a 6 foot table). You will have 4 2x10's cut down to 70.5" when all is said and done. For the legs (2x12's) you will need to cut those down to 28 5/8" (for a 30.25" tall table). You will have 8 2x12's cut down to 28 5/8"when all is said and done.


Tip: Our miter saw is 12" and doesn't quite get through the 2x12's in one cut. Mike will flip the boards and follow the cut through to finish it out.



STEP 2:

- Square off round edges of 2x12's, 2x10's and 4x4 post.


The lumber will come off of the shelves with slightly rounded edges. We aren't going for a rounded look here and don't want food to get caught in the cracks of the table top, so we are going to trim off just enough to get rid of the rounded edges.

Take the width of the boards you are starting with and set the table saw to 1/8" less than the width. Run your board through the table saw as Mike is doing below on one side, flip the board over and set the fresh cut edge on the fence, and set your table saw for another 1/8" less on the second pass. This will give you a clean square edge on all boards.

Tip: Run all of your same width boards through once on one side and then flip them and take the 1/8" off. That way you aren't going back and forth on making adjustments on the table saw. Mike will run all of the 2x12's at once on one side then flip them, run all of the 2x10's at once on one side then flip them, and then finally run the 4x4 through.



STEP 3:


- Drill kreg holes and connect table top boards together.


Use your kreg HD jig and start drilling holes on three of the four 2x10's. You don't want to drill holes on the fourth 2x10 as the holes of the third will secure it. See below.


With a 6 foot table, we will typically drill about 5 equally spaced kreg holes. Don't go too far or too close to the edge for the first and last holes. We use a kreg brand clamp with the kreg jig because it has wide flat surface and fits the jig perfectly.

After the holes are drilled on three of the boards, you will connect them using 2 1/2" Kreg HD screws. Pictured below!

We will then use the Kreg clamp again to clamp the boards together. We work one board at a time and watch that the boards are flush and even. Be sure you watch this closely when securing the pieces together.

See! Nice and flush.

After you are done the top is complete and should look like the above picture. Again, be sure it is a flush, even surface.

STEP 4:


- Make the table legs


To make the table legs, you are going to take your 2x12's that you cut in step 1 and sandwich 2 at a time together. When doing this, you will want to be sure the crown (or rounded surface) is facing the other board you're sandwiching with. More tips on this in the DIY video.

Another tip we want to give you on these legs to avoid a wobbly table is the be sure that the boards are flush and even. If they aren't even with each other, be sure you trim them down with your miter saw to ensure that they are. WOBBLE DE WOBBLE IS NO BUENO.

To sandwich them together, use a generous amount of wood glue between the two boards and secure with a 2.5" trim head screw, pictured below. Mike prefers to use these as they leave behind a hole almost as small as a brad nail and have a reverse thread at the top for extra grip. They're the bomb.com.

You're going to do this 4 times. 2 boards per sandwich. Again, be sure they are ALL flush with each other to avoid a wobbly table.

Tip: When you are securing the boards down with your trim head screws, be sure you screw them in at opposite corners (diagonally). Then you can move on to securing a few additional screws to the middle. Mike's tip is to put at least 7 screws per sandwich. Not your PBJ, though, because that would be uncomfortably crunchy.

GRK screws:

STEP 5:

- Sketch out your hole for the post


You are going to take 2 of your leg sandwiches at a time here. In the below picture you can see how Mike has 2 of the table legs positioned together for this process. He went up 9" from the bottom of the legs on the inside of each sandwich and marked the bottom of the post hole. To mark the top of the post hole he went up an additional 3.25"plus a 1/16". Your post after trimming off the edges is going to be approximately 3.25" x 3.25", so taking off that additional 1/16" is going to ease up the process of pounding in the post. Trust us on this one.

You then can connect the marks with a straight edge to get your square. Repeat this process again for the second set of table leg sandwiches.


STEP 6:

- Cut out your post holes


To cut out the post holes with a circular saw like we did, just make incremental cuts like pictured below. Then you can hammer out the pieces and clean up the jagged edges with a chisel. Just be sure the surface is level. It doesn't have to be super clean and perfect, but it does need to be level/even.

Below is a picture of the incremental cuts and what it looks like after hammering them out. Use your chisel to clean it up for a flush surface.

When you have done this to all 4 of the table leg sandwiches, the holes should resemble the below pictures. You are then ready to secure these table leg sammies in place!


STEP 7:

- Connect table legs together and secure to table top


You are going to need a quantity of 4 2x2's cut down to the width of the table. Mike secured the first 2x2's in 10" from the table edge on both sides. He then used the table leg sandwiches as a guide for where the second set of 2x2's should be secured. Secure the 2x2's with the GRK trim screws.

Once the 2x2's are in place, you will secure your table leg sandwiches together. To do this, you will screw the screws in at an angle. Be sure you clamp the legs together so that they don't pull away from each other.

Then secure the legs to the 2x2's. You will just want to make sure that the legs have 10" on each side from the edge of the table. 10" on one side and 10" on the other.


STEP 8:

- Place your post


You will want to cut your 4x4 down to start with. Cut your 4x4 to about 66.5". We suggest cutting to 68" and trimming down to your liking. We have about a 3" overhang on each side. You will then place the post in the hole you made earlier and use a sledgehammer to get the post into place. The post will be snug and may need trimming depending on your hole making skills in step 5 and 6.


STEP 9:

- Cut and attach trim


You will be using your 1x4 boards for the trim on the table. First, you will need to rip the boards down to 3" using your table saw.

Then you will cut down the boards to length. You will have to measure as you go to be sure they are clean and flush. Start with the longer side of the table for trim first, then work your way around the table in a clockwise motion cutting your boards at a 45 degree angle. This will ensure that your boards and angles are nice and flush! Attach each board with an air nailer. You can find ours here.

Tip: We do it this way because there are slight variances in the wood. Measuring as you go will help you get exact cuts each time.


STEP 10:

- Fill in gaps and most holes with wood putty


We want to mention that we don't fill in each and every hole and gap. We focus on the table legs and the edges of the table top trim.


STEP 11:

- Sand down!


We used both a belt sander and a mouse sander to sand down the table. We used the belt sander to sand down some high spots to be sure the top was nice and flat. FLUSHHH. We then used the orbital sander to smooth down the rest of the piece.


STEP 12:

- Stain!


We threw together a custom stain mixture for this table. We often mix stain colors to give us a more custom look and really achieve the right color matching. We knew we wanted to match our mantel and floors as much as possible, possibly a bit lighter. Mike threw together an inconsistent mix of classic grey, driftwood and special walnut. Majority being driftwood, second most being classic grey and just a splash of special walnut. Too much special walnut will give you a red undertone to the wood- may vary in severity depending on the tannins in the wood. We specifically pick out WHITE lumber and stray away from any pieces with too much of a red undertone. Same goes with grey. If you find pieces of lumber with too much grey, just know that no amount of stain is going to fully cover that. We are VERY selective with our boards and we suggest you do the same.

Stain can be found here, here, and here.

We use our Wagner 570 to spray our pieces with stain. This gives it an even coat and is quick! You can also use a foam brush to stain the piece. You can find our sprayer here. After you stain, be sure you wipe it down after about 10 minutes. Don't wait too long otherwise the stain will be too tacky and will be difficult to wipe down.


STEP 13:

- Seal your table


We don't have any pictures of this step, but it is VERY important. We use a water based polycrylic to seal our pieces. We did a total of 3 coats with sanding in-between each coat. You will need to let it dry for about 2 hours between each coat. Follow the instructions on the back of your poly for appropriate drying times. You can find our poly here.


THE REVEAL


I (Mrs M&M) was almost in tears with the final result of our dining room table! The chairs- you're not going to believe this- are PATIO chairs from Target! They are on sale right now for 10% off online so be sure you order them up before they're gone! The quality is amazing and my theory is if they are weather resistant then they are kid resistant.

So, funny story with the chairs.. I went back and forth quite a few times and even ended up returning a pair of suede chairs and swapped them for FOUR of these bad boys. Four for the price of two and they were much sturdier and wider. I firmly believe that having a wide dining chair is essential. I spend many hours editing these posts and our channel videos at the dining table and need a good spot for my bum. Speaking of that- we have cushions on the way currently! We will have another post with our final dining room reveal with links to all of the decor and products.


As you can see, this is my roost. Where all the magic happens. We don't have an office, so I keep my work calendar and items stored near the table and set up shop right here. I edit all of the blog posts and videos right here!


Below you can see some of my most favorite details of this table. We don't fill all of the nail holes, and for good reason. It gives the table that rustic character we are so fond of over here at M&M Rustics. The post in the middle of the table is the bread and butter. The money piece. My favorite. It is roughed up just enough and gives the table that extra "oomph".

Here is a close-up of the stain color. We tried to match our mantel, flooring and shelves the best that we could so that the look overall was consistent in the main living area. Our accent wood color is Jacobean in the gate on the stairs and you will see more of that accent color come into play in some future projects. Again, this was a special mixture that Mike whipped up with inconsistent amounts of classic grey, driftwood and special walnut. Caution on the special walnut- too much will give you a red undertone. Just a splash did the trick for us.


Alright you guys! We hope you enjoyed this walk-through on our modern farmhouse dining table design! This one is a signature M&M design and we are so excited to be sharing it with you. Be sure to tag us in your own creations and share the DIY on your socials! We appreciate each and every one of you and are so grateful to have such an amazing group of followers. You guys are what makes M&M Rustics so amazing! Happy quarantine and stay HEALTHY!


All the love,












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